Photos of the Yorkshire Dales Paul Jackson Ribblesdale
I just managed to catch this panorama before the clouds closed in from the west this lunchtime. This limestone area of Attermire Scar and Rye Loaf Hill, above Settle in Ribblesdale, always reminds me of the American Wild West. But let’s not carried away, the highest point here is around 1,800ft.
There’s a lovely old hedge close to home – interestingly unkempt and a mixture of all kinds of trees, bushes and shrubs. Unusually for this time of year, this morning there were small birds flitting between the branches and singing as though it was already spring. There aren’t a lot of hedges here in Ribblesdale, where those iconic drystone walls tend to dominate the scene. The Dales just wouldn’t be the Dales without those ancient walls; man-made but giving off a natural feel and perfectly embracing their surroundings. Last year I took a number of photos featuring the walls of Ribblesdale; including the one above in autumn just out of Langcliffe village and the one below on a beautiful summer’s day along Watery Lane in Settle. Just as with the hedges, walls provide homes, shelter and vital corridors for all kinds of wildlife – long may they remain part of our countryside.
Regular visitors to the blog will have realised by now that I’m fond of (won’t admit to being obsessed with) weather watching in the Dales. Especially at this time of year, the light show can change by the minute. The above picture taken this morning captures the sun bursting out over the Settle area of Ribblesdale in the distance. Mid ground, above Stainforth, are threatening clouds; some mist clings to wooded ravines and very cold rain is falling. Meanwhile, I’m standing near Dale Head Farm on the Silverdale road in a tiny shaft of weak sunlight. To my left and right, out of shot, much of Fountains Fell and Penyghent is hidden under low cloud. Love it.
I was in Three Peaks territory this morning but the peaks were nowhere to be seen. This freight train was crossing the viaduct just as I reached Ribblehead and as you can see, the cloud completely obscured the view of Whernside… as well as Ingleborough and Penyghent. I’d hoped to take a Ranulph Fiennes-type walk up to Twisleton Scar and take a photo across Chapel-le-Dale, looking towards Ingleborough but it would have been a waste of time.
Recently I noticed in a magazine – not Dalesman I hasten to add – that Twisleton has been spelled with an additional t after the s. I once let the same incorrect spelling go through to print while I was editor of Dalesman. Consequently I was buried under a deluge of letters from readers eager to point out the error of my ways. The name means ‘farm at the fork of a river’ from Old English words ‘twisla’ and ‘tun’ – in this case where Kingsdale Beck meets the River Greta. And why did I mention the slightly mad Ranulph Fiennes earlier? Because his full Sunday name is Sir Ranulph Twisleton-Wykeham-Fiennes. One of his ancient ancestral lines must have stemmed from the area. Some thought goes into these blogs you know.
I witnessed waves of clouds and sunshine changing the scene before my eyes in Ribblesdale this afternoon. How powerful the wind must be to be able to cause such rapid upheaval. Inside the car I was told digitally that the temperature outside was 4.5 deg, but my body declared otherwise as soon as I stepped into the fresh Yorkshire Dales air. With a small (borrowed) digital camera I managed to capture a cloud-topped Penyghent. Further up the dale the high fells were covered in snow and the clouds were threatening to deposit more. I fear that the worst of winter is still to come.
In my local churchyard of St Mary’s here in Long Preston, Ribblesdale, there aren’t many ‘grand’ tombstones – a reflection perhaps of the make-up of this once rural community. Nevertheless, the memorials in this small graveyard fascinate me, and over the years I’ve collected – photographically I should add – a great variety of them. This simple wooden cross is probably my favourite. In a shady spot it catches late afternoon sunshine. It’s obviously still maintained as even the best paint from the 1930s couldn’t have survived so many winters. On the Ancestry website I discovered that Richard, who was born in the village, was a sheep and cattle grazier and that he and his wife Jane had seven children. Every gravestone here has a story to tell; social history waiting to be unravelled.
This will be the first Christmas for many a year that I haven’t kept a photographic diary to remember it by. My camera lies forlorn, awaiting repair or replacement. I’ve been out walking in Ribblesdale without my digital companion but the outings don’t seem the same, and without the excuse of stopping to take a picture the walks have seemed harder – or the fatigue might be down to festive excess. I talked to a farmer this morning who said he was bringing some pregnant ewes nearer the farm. Some will start lambing in around 5-6 weeks he said and there’s much harsh weather still to come. My photo was taken on a lovely mid March day without any hint of winter around – how nice it would be to be able to skip the next two months… but any money I can muster will be going on a new camera and not on a sunshine trip to the southern hemisphere.
Remember Christmas Day 2010? Snow had been falling for a couple of days but the clouds opened up to reveal a glorious clear blue sky on the 25th. I headed up Ribblesdale where the Three Peaks wore wispy scarves of light low cloud mixed with loose blowing snow. The handful of customers in the Station Inn at Ribblehead gave a cheery welcome; further along the road down Chapel-le-Dale at the Hill Inn was this icy greeting. Sadly it doesn’t look like we’ll be treated to a snowy landscape this year – just as well seeing as my camera is still on the blink – but I hope you enjoy a fabulous Yorkshire Dales Christmas just the same.
My camera’s been playing up recently hence the lack of activity on this blog. The dreaded ‘Err099’ message appeared on the display, which all Canon users will recognise as being code for ‘not the foggiest idea what’s wrong, mate – probably a big bill to follow’. I gave it a good clean and took it for a spin this morning. It worked long enough for me to take this shot showing the familiar outline of Ingleborough against a turbulent sky, and the early sun trying force a way through. But the camera spluttered to a halt once again. After almost ten years and more than 17,000 photos with a camera that cost just over £400, maybe some would say I’ve had my money’s worth. Have you got the hint, Santa? Merry Christmas.
PS there was a fair gathering of snow on the top of Ingleborough.
The Hepworth Gallery and Yorkshire Sculpture park have some excellent exhibits. But to enjoy natural and unusual sculptures, a short walk up to Norber above Austwick, near Ribblesdale in the Yorkshire Dales, will do just as well. I’ve lost count of the number of times I’ve been in amongst the erratics of Norber’s fields – even as a schoolboy on geology outings – but every time I go I see something different. I’m sure the object in my picture trotted on a few yards when my back was turned (I must stay off the Red Bull when out walking). Restrictions on this blog mean that justice can’t be done to panoramic shots like this one taken from Norber so you’ll have to take my word that it was glorious in this morning’s sunshine.
