Dales highs and lows

treewallExcellent autumn light tempted me out into the Dales this week. I’ve been happy with the photographic results and, if my Twitter statistics are anything to go by, so have my followers. Then why do I feel a little down at the end of such a productive and enjoyable seven days?

Why? Because it’s becoming more apparent just how much the quality of our rural life is changing and how little the government seems to care about it.

There’s a new kind of industrial revolution going on in the countryside and it’s increasingly noticeable around the edges of the Yorkshire Dales National Park.

Humans have always exploited the countryside. Mills developed around natural water power while lead and coal mines along with stone, slate and limestone quarries have been regular features in the Dales for centuries.

Driving around now I see an ever-increasing number of wind turbines. This week I stopped to view the massive solar power station at Gisburn, where 20,000 panels have been installed across three fields. Many more will follow.

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Thousands of solar panels at Gisburn

After bemoaning the fact that fracking had been allowed on the North York Moors a couple of months back, permission for fracking has now been granted down the road in Lancashire… despite the fact that the locals and the council didn’t want it to happen.

Further afield huge agricultural businesses are gobbling up small farms, turning millions of acres into featureless prairies or unnatural meat factories, ruining the countryside’s natural balance, destroying wildlife habitats and forever changing communities.

I live in a Dales village where the local primary school was closed a few years back – now we learn that the lovely school at Horton-in-Ribblesdale is seriously under threat. With it could go the life-blood and future of another rural community. Families will move out and the place will be filled with second-homeowners and holiday cottages. (Don’t get me wrong – those people are most welcome, but it is the community balance I worry about.)

Libraries and other local resources, including municipal parks, are also being abandoned by councils while funds for National Parks are being cut.

Yes, we must always look for solutions to problems concerning provision of food and power, but why must it be at the expense of our quality of life and the destruction of the things many of us hold so dear?

That’s ‘progress’ I’m told. Don’t fret youngsters, old dinosaurs like me will soon be extinct… unfortunately so will much of the countryside.

Talking of extinction, as I was heading home from Gisburn the other day I came across a farmer who was driving along a minor road, presumably next to his farm, in one of those golf-buggy-type-things. He pulled to the side of the road, grabbed his gun and fired it skywards. It was a tad disconcerting but something not to be too surprised at out in the countryside. I didn’t stop to find out what he was firing at, but I do hope it wasn’t a rare bird of prey – there have been too many reports of them being killed this year. That’s another sensitive rural subject concerning songbirds, farming and the hunting-shooting-fishing brigade – but enough ranting for one day… enjoy the photos.

Dales photos from this week

Dales countsheep
If you can’t sleep try counting the sheep in this photo – hundreds on the hillside in Ribblesdale
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Cows – and a bull – gather at Winskill
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Watlowes dry valley as the early mist was dispersing
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Autumn sunshine and path at Langcliffe
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Stainforth Scar showing some early autumn tints
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Evening light on Ingleborough
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Attermire in the afternoon
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Ingleborough in the distance, seen from Langcliffe
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Scaleber Force
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Changing colours by the Ribble
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More hints that autumn is upon us at Malham Tarn
Dales penyghent
I couldn’t go a week without a photo of Penyghent, could I?
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A quiet moment on Langcliffe mill pond

Can you solve Dales stone mystery

Dales wavesSeven days ago I believed the Dales summer was all over and done with. So what a bonus to have a few pleasant days this week. I’ve been able saunter around the hills and dales with the fleece still tucked away in the bottom of my bag. One day I drove up lonely Kingsdale and pulled in to walk along the old track which leads over to Barbondale. I love the views from up here. Sitting at the top of High Pike at around 1600ft you can see over several dales and north-west to the Howgills. I was pleased the top photo came out as well as it did. The folding hills merge well with the rolling clouds which bubbled up like waves on the sea.

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This carved stone sits in a field at a place on the OS map known as Foul Moss, just off the track. It is only a couple of hundred yards away from the County Stone, the point where Yorkshire, Lancashire and Westmorland all meet. If anyone knows the significance of this little stone and carving I’d be interested to hear from them.

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Distant mist but the view down Kingsdale from the top gate is always worth a second glance
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From the Barbondale track the top of Ingleborough can be seen
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The first view of Deepdale and beyond as you rise out of Kingsdale
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Photo-bombed by a horse as I looked towards the Howgills

Later I drove into Dent where I picked up a couple of stock pictures after stopping off at this waterfall in Deepdale.

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Earlier in the week I drove up to High Birkwith at the top end of Ribblesdale for a circular stroll around Ling Gill National Nature Reserve. By ‘around’ I really mean right round the edge of the reserve for I wouldn’t contemplate clambering my way through the gill. By all accounts it is an almost primeval landscape of boulders and waterfalls, with dark and dank enclaves populated by rare plants. The short, steep-sided valley has remained virtually untouched from grazing animals and humans. Probably the best website I’ve seen for further details is http://oldfieldslimestone.blogspot.co.uk/2013/06/ling-gill-limestone-wild-and-untamed.html

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The Tarn at Newhouses on the way to High Birkwith

The walk, stretches of which were still a tad boggy, takes in part of the Pennine Way and also the Three Peaks route between Penyghent and Whernside. I never tire of the views around this part of the dales.

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Park Fell seen from near Nether Lodge (pictured below)

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Ling Gill bridge. The National Nature Reserve is in the steep gill which can be seen behind the ruin (below)

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Half of last week’s blog disappeared into an internet black hole. Probably my fault. Here’s one you missed of a duck trying to explain the hokey-cokey…

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Dipping a toe outside Yorkshire

img_5063I took a few tentative steps outside Yorkshire this week. I must add a rider here: many of those steps were within the new Yorkshire Dales National Park boundary. You know what? It’s pretty good – Westmorland and Cumberland have quite a bit going for them. Just south of Appleby is the impressive Rutter Force which just sneaks into the recently extended park. The mill there is now accommodation, reached by a ford which even on a fairly calm day like this I wouldn’t cross in my little car.

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Busy Appleby is just outside the Yorkshire park boundary but a fine place to visit – made even better by being reachable via the Settle-Carlisle Railway. Before this visit I hadn’t realised the extent Appleby had suffered from the last major flooding. Many riverside properties are still being renovated or drying out. Flood prevention schemes along the riverbank are being implemented.

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A definite autumnal look beside the Eden in Appleby

Yorkshire img_5055 They like to take care of their trees in Appleby – this one has a nice woolly coat to protect it from the strong north-easterlies.

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The red sandstone St Lawrence church in Appleby – parts of it date back to the 12th century.
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I was looking forward to some extensive views down the Eden Valley and Mallerstangdale but sadly the mist never really cleared. Cloud clung to the tops and from a distance looked like a layer of snow on the east. This scene was taken from Pendragon Castle.

Back in real Yorkshire

In amongst lengthy thunder and lightning storms this week there were a couple of decent sunsets. The shot below was taken at Winskill Stones above Langcliffe.

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Why seeing red in the Dales is vital

Dales arncliffe2Bright red telephone boxes in the Dales, like this one at Arncliffe, need to be preserved. Too many of the old pay-phones all around the countryside are being disconnected and removed. In the Dales some have been developed into tiny book-swap-shops, art galleries etc, and in the Lake District I’ve even seen one turned into a fish tank. I’m not just some old fart wanting to wallow in nostalgia. I can see the logic behind getting rid of some urban boxes but in the countryside where mobile reception is poor, or where walkers and campers have no way of recharging their mobiles’ batteries, the old red boxes can help save lives. I read this week that Keswick Mountain Rescue Team are asking people to help keep a kiosk at Seathwaite on a popular route to Scafell Pike. Surely the saving of just one person during the whole life of a phonebox is more important than the minutest of dents made in the profit margins of a communications giant like BT? Comments can be made at:
http://planning.allerdale.gov.uk/portal/servlets/ApplicationSearchServlet?PKID=148110

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Another shot of the kiosk in Arncliffe.

I popped into Arncliffe this week during a superb Dales drive from Langcliffe in Ribblesdale, over the Silverdale road to Halton Gill and down Littondale. From there I doubled back along the dodgy road via Darnbrook to Malham Tarn. Then it was back to Langcliffe via Cowside and Winskill. Here’s a selection of pics on the journey…

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Looking back over Arncliffe from the Darnbrook road
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Looking towards Penyghent from the Silverdale road at Dalehead Farm.
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Further along the road to Halton Gill at the ‘backside’ of Penyghent.
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The breathtaking Dales view down Littondale. One of my favourites.
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I like it so much here’s a black and white shot.
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Little Halton Gill snuggles between Littondale’s steep hills.
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The beck at Arncliffe.
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There are some fascinating tombstones at St Oswald’s church, Arncliffe.
Dales stocks
Bring back the village stocks, I say. Not enough time for me to list who I’d throw rotten tomatoes at. Arncliffe.
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It’s not always as tranquil as this in the Dales – the river Skirfare near St Oswald’s in Arncliffe.

Whenever I drive through Rathmell in Ribblesdale, as I did one day this week, I wonder about the origins of the term ‘Reading Room’. I realise it is the equivalent of a village hall but why was it so called? Is it a Dales thing?

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Dales plumpewes
I don’t know what happens at the treatment works by the Ribble here in Settle but those ewes certainly look to be thriving on it.

Sitting ducks

Dales ducks
Team photo: Millpond Ducks FC first XI line up for their latest match in Langcliffe.

Changing Dales

Dales locks
Yesterday I thought I’d take one more summer shot at Langcliffe Locks before the trees change colour.
Dales claphamfalls
Earlier in the week I dropped in at Clapham Falls where there was already more than a hint of autumn.

Missing the Dales bus for sunny delight

Dales cyclesunRather than watch the Dales bus ride from Richmond to Ingleton on TV I travelled up Ribblesdale to see a sunset. It was well worth it for this week’s photo diary. The view of Moughton Scar and Wharfe hamlet when the late sun catches hillside there is always a fine sight. I sat in a lay-by on the back road from Helwith Bridge to Stainforth as the sun finally set. The colours and patterns were amazing behind the silhouettes of Norber and Robin Procter Scar. To my right, now in half-light, Ribblesdale and Penyghent looked like the red-grey dying embers of a bonfire. My thanks to the passing cyclist who helped make the top shot a much better picture.

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Night falls on Penyghent
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Wharfe hamlet beneath Moughton in some strong evening light
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A different angle on the sunset
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Silhouettes near Austwick
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My car doesn’t usually star in my photos so here’s its moment of glory

I watched the bus ride programme in three chunks on iPlayer. (I’ve never been one for long bus rides – I was often the one throwing up on school trips). When I’m driving around the Dales I’m usually forever gawping at the scenery and almost crashing – but with the TV programme I found myself looking at the road and thinking ‘he’s going to crash into that wall’! I’d read somewhere that this was a ‘real time’ trip along the route … well it certainly wasn’t: it took just about five minutes to get from Hawes to Ribblehead in the iPlayer version I watched, so unless they switched from bus to jet fighter part-way it wasn’t ‘real time’. And the journey ended at Ribblehead, missing some of those great views and features along Chapel-le-Dale.

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Three shots all taken at or near Ribblehead. The train one a reminder of this time last year when the steam specials were still heading along the Settle-Carlisle line.

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Later in the week I parked up on the Kingsdale road for a wander around this peaceful dale. I also popped down to Thornton Force where lots of Dales holidaymakers were enjoying the waterfalls walk – I say ‘enjoying’ but looking at some of the tortured faces of those not expecting to climb hundreds of steps to join the green lane above the waterfalls, I’m not sure enjoyment was what they were experiencing. Certainly many looked as though this was their first, and probably last, exercise of the year.

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The clear water of Kingsdale Beck.
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Rain heading in from the west. Kingsdale.
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Looking up Kingsdale towards Whernside.
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Ingleborough peeking out above Twisleton Scar, seen from Kingsdale.
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Thornton Falls on the Ingleton Falls walk.

A lot of my spare time over the last few weeks has involved fitting a kitchen into my tiny cottage. The building was obviously constructed before right-angles and straight lines were invented. Seemingly it was built by eye – unfortunately, the eyes must have been owned by the village drunk. Anyway, I’ve run out of money now so hopefully more time for photography and wandering around the Dales in the coming weeks.

Dales teeth
Did anyone see a sheep without its bottom set this week?
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Late sun on a path above Langcliffe.

Gold medal days in the dales

Dales IMG_4576Although it’s been a mixed weather week in the Yorkshire dales my photo diary shows several golden moments. I walk with Romans, drive the border and a cow takes the wee-wee.

I did it byway

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Top photo shows the Roman road stretching down Wensleydale.

I popped over into one of Ribblesdale’s next-dale-neighbours to follow in the footsteps of the Romans on Monday. The ancient route to Bainbridge, which I picked up at the top of Sleddale, offers some fine views up and down Wensleydale and Raydale. Although it wasn’t the crispest of days for long-distant shots, Semerwater, Pen Hill and Addleborough helped paint a good picture. It didn’t seem worth ploughing a way through the peat bog to the top of Wether Fell as the view across Wensleydale can be enjoyed just the same along the path which circles around the hill like a necklace.

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Looking down Raydale towards Semerwater.
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Someone having an even better view of the Dales than me.
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Above, the flat top of Yorburgh with Wensleydale beyond.
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If my bearings are correct that’s Sedbusk seen from Wether Fell

Golden days and nights in the Dales

A late stroll from Langcliffe to watch the sunset was well worthwhile. Here several shots in no particular order:

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Last light, nearing home
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Ingleborough in the distance (note the ‘sun dog’ – part of the Sun’s halo).
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Looking across to Penyghent on my outward journey.
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In low-level light looking down on the Ribble
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Evening shot of Ingleborough and Smearsett Scar from the Malham road out of Langcliffe,

Along the border

For a change of view of the sunset, the following evening I took a trip along the Yorkshire-Lancashire border …

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Stocks Reservoir looked serene just as the Sun was disappearing over the horizon.

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Is this cow taking the p*** out of my attempts to capture a rural sunset?
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On my journey back home the full Moon glowed brightly over Settle. I was on the lookout for werewolves.
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The grouse moors on the borderlands took on pretty patterns in the low light.
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On the way up the bleak moorland road from Bentham to Slaidburn the purple heather was soaking up the last rays of sunshine.
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Sheep settling down for the night near Gisburn Forest.
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Do not adjust your sets … I tried to get as much fading light as possible in the shot. The colours turned out weird but Ingleborough still looked majestic.
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From this angle, near the source of the River Hodder – part of which forms the traditional Yorkshire border – Gisburn Forest looks incredibly dense.

A Dales summer & are we related?

IMG_8982Summer can be all too brief, especially here in the Dales. Hopefully there are a few more warm days to come. Here are fourteen shots from a Dales ‘summer’ …

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First shot and above, sheep enjoying a summer sunset in the dales – both taken at Winskill, Ribblesdale

 

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The signpost should really read ‘Good weather left, stormy weather right’

 

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Looking the other way from the previous picture of Penyghent taken at Dale Head Farm, I like the way the wall follows the ridge

 

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Looking across the Ribble near Horton in Ribblesdale

 

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Shame about the telephone wires but still a nice shot of a tree in the Ribble meadows with Penyghent looming ominously in the background

 

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There aren’t many flatish, open spaces in Upper Ribblesdale – this one is between Horton and Helwith Bridge

 

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I posted a similar shot to this a few weeks back but prefer this one with a shaft of sunshine lighting up the meadow in Horton, and Penyghent looking dark and moody in the background.

 

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Someone shouted ‘mint sauce!’ and started a stampede

 

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A Dales stile and drystone wall with interesting sky. Fountains Fell in the background.

 

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Sheep couldn’t care less about what’s happening in the Dales sky.

 

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Not the clearest view of Pendle Hill from near the top of the Craven Fault above Settle.

 

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Trees soaking up the summer sun in the ground of Langcliffe Hall, Ribblesdale. (I’m peering over the wall, not trespassing!)

 

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Finally, a shot of Marsett in Raydale – hidden just over the hills from the Dales of Ribblesdale, Wharfedale and Wensleydale.

For the benefit of anyone tracing their family tree – particularly in West and North Yorkshire – I have now published a list of surnames connected to my own family. Click on the Family History page to see whether your surname is included – if so, please feel free to contact me via the comments section or by email on paul@jacksoneditorial.co.uk and we’ll discover whether you have a link to my lot.

Ribble reflections and crown of Thorns

Ribble 2Two enjoyable shortish walks by the Ribble to report on this week. The river looked fabulous as it reflected the sun while I sauntered along to Stainforth.

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The Ribble and Stackhouse from Stainforth Scar

Then it was a trudge up Stainforth Scar to take in views up and down Ribblesdale. I’ll let the photos do the talking here as I’m out of breath…

Ribble smearclouds
Lovely clouds over Ingleborough, Smearsett Scar and Knight Stainforth
Ribble pyggap
Penyghent seen through a gap in an ancient wall on Stainforth Scar
Ribble path
One of my favourite paths near Langcliffe
Ribble rocket
Looks like a rocket taking off from Skipton – the first manned exploration probe into Lancashire?
Ribble stile
Another view towards Smearsett Scar and Ingleborough
Ribble hayfield
One day, son, all this hard work will be yours…

Making hay while the sun shone was the order of the day as I approached Langcliffe. So satisfying to see people working while I idle my time away.

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Ribble head

Later in the week in cloudier weather I snatched a short walk at the head of the Ribble. Thorns Gill looked and sounded fabulous. The crown of Thorns has to be the hidden waterfall at the Gearstones end. But the old bridge which has defied gravity for hundreds of years was also a splendid sight.

Ribble thornsfall

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Ribble thornsrock
A miniature world on a rock – a bit like planet Earth, really

The Three Peaks of Ingleborough, Whernside and Penyghent took on different moods as the clouds (and trains) passed by.

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Clouds gather over Park Fell and Ingleborough
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Zoomed in from Thorns Gill – a goods train over Ribblehead Viaduct, helping to remove more lorries from our congested roads.

www.settlecarlisle.co.uk

 

 

Ingleborough nature reserve at Ribblehead

Ingleborough IMG_4462Ribblehead quarry is part of the Ingleborough National Nature Reserve with great views of the Three Peaks of Whernside, Penyghent and Ingleborough.

Visit http://www.natureinthedales.org.uk/get-involved/places-to-see-wildlife/ingleborough-nnr for more details.

Quick Ingleborough NNR photo blog

I know I wrote last week that I wouldn’t be blogging for a while but I just had to set myself a small photo assignment and here it is from the Ingleborough reserve …

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Dales highs and lows

dales flascoeI’ve had a pleasant week wandering around the dales. A few gentle walks averaging around four miles per saunter; some warm weather and not a sign of sciatica. The photography’s been worthwhile too, judging by the number of ‘hits’ on Facebook, Twitter and my website which reached a new high following my postings during the week. 20 dales photos to view here this week.

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A dales necklace near Winskill Stones

I headed for the top of Langcliffe Scar last Sunday. It’s a fabulous viewpoint from which to see Ribblesdale, the Three Peaks, Pendle Hill and other nearby dales. The wispy clouds directly above me threw up all kinds of weird and wonderful shapes. Is that a broken heart and an angel looking for me? Further away, to the east, lenticular clouds were forming spaceships. And the blue sky contrasting starkly against the limestone always draws the eye.

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dales Ingle LScar

Strictly speaking there isn’t a public footpath to the top of Langcliffe Scar. Under foot it can be quite tricky with much of the limestone clints and grykes covered by vegetation. One benefit of this is the sheep don’t like it too much so there is more chance for the wild flowers to get a hold. Sometimes getting down on the ground and really seeing what’s growing can be as rewarding as the magnificent long-distant views.

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dales wispyclouds

dales angel

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Dales history

Taking advantage of the valley bottom lanes around Austwick once again, I visited one of the ancient clapper bridges near the village. The first photo in the blog shows Flascoe Bridge, which is Grade II listed with Historic England. It was built in the 15th century of limestone and five slate flags on rubble piers. The bridge is about 12 strides across for those with short legs like mine.

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Austwick village
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The fields of Austwick and Norber

Down memory lane

Somewhere from the murky depths of my mind I dredged up memories of an old deserted church seen on a walk I did many years ago around Semerwater. So on Wednesday I popped over the pass from Ribblesdale to Wensleydale and hidden Raydale to see whether the place had changed in the intervening 40+ years.

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dales semerstock dales semercows

Semerwater on a quiet pre-school-holiday, midweek day with the sun blazing down seems a million miles from the world’s angst. I followed the lakeside path through the Yorkshire Wildlife Trust Nature Reserve to the outskirts of Stalling Busk where the ruined old church still stands. The place was actually in better condition than I remember. On returning home I discovered on tinterweb that consolidation work was carried out in 1981 and further restoration undertaken in 2000. It was still being used as a church in the 1920s.

dales cloudlane

I walked back to the car via the quiet top lane so I could see Semerwater from above. The weather turned dramatically, as it often does in the dales, during the hour or so I was walking.

Animal magic

At first I thought this sheep had been crushed by a tombstone at Stalling Busk. But I soon realised it was quite happy and just shading from the sun. A bit like my dim cat, it can’t understand why its head is cool but the rest of its body remains boiling hot.

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The sheep looked cooler admiring the view from Winskill, above Langcliffe.

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Squirrel setting a bad example about rail safety at Settle Station.

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dales moles

On hearing of plans to upgrade our Trident missiles this week several moles in the Yorkshire Dales decided to surrender.

And finally…

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Is that Mark Rand sitting on the S of his converted water tower at Settle Railway Station?

I’m taking a summer break from blogging but will continue to post photos from Ribblesdale and the rest of the Dales here and on Twitter (@paulinribb) whenever I can.